A Trip to the Perigord in September 2014 (Part 2 of 3)

Our third day. First a 'before breakfast' walk then breakfast. Then we pack our bags as we leave St. Leon today and Roland, our host, kindly gives us lift down the hill to the village. Nobody is about at the river bank but it doesn't matter as we can collect our own life-jackets and paddles and slip one of the canoes into the water. It's a cool morning. A rolling mist drifts along the water surface like ephemeral tumble-weed. We push the boat out and ferry across to the far side to reach the deeper, faster water. Bob spins the boat around and we begin our day.



It'll take us about an hour to get down to Roque St. Christophe so we gently push on and get ourselves immersed in the quiet autumn feel of the river. We glide beneath the cliffs where we can see the cut-out where we walked yesterday. We watch the birds around us. The loopy undulating flight of the wagtails with a yellow splash. The direct, foot above the water, flight of the kingfisher - a blue flash. Jays always cross the river at right angles at house height. Rooks and crows make a racket as we pass and the song birds play their hidden song. We come to an island and have some fun deciding which channel to take and then make it tricky for ourselves by changing our mind halfway through. A Heron rises and gives an annoyed squawk.

We pull over at Roque St. Christophe. It's an awkward place to stop as it's rocky and slippery as well, but we drag the canoe to safety and leave her there whilst we visit the site. This place is a huge cliff face with many grooves cut into it by the river over millions of years. People have lived here for tens of thousands of years. These days it houses a museum which shows how people lived here in the Middle Ages. Bob spends an hour here whilst I have a coffee and read. I also meet a fellow from Australia who is doing a cycling holiday.

Back on the boat we continue on our way. Another forty minutes or so and we come to Tursac and our lunch stop at the picnic site. Back on the river we glide past cliffs and generally just while away the time in silence. The autumns has it characteristic smell. Leaves drift downstream alongside us. A wood-fire somewhere drifts the smell of smoke around us. It's silent apart from the gentle lap of the water and birdsong along the banks.



Eventually we arrive underneath the cliff-face Chapel at La Madeleine. It is 11th Century and was once visited by Richard the Lionheart on his way to the Crusades. It also has stone age caves and the remains of a Roman fortress above it. Unfortunately it cannot be accessed from the river so we just drift lazily by and enjoy the view.

Another hours gentle paddling brings us underneath the cliffs just prior to Les Eyzies and then under the road bridge to our take out. A beautiful days paddling. A few minutes walk and we arrive at the Passeur hotel. We were only here a couple of days ago but of course the two Jeromes welcome us back as ever.

Bob spends the afternoon perusing the arrow head collection at the Pre-History Museum whilst I nip down to the Pôle International de la Préhistoire which is a Research/Educational Centre where I can access the internet - we take no computers on our canoes!

In the evening we go to dinner in the little restaurant opposite the main square and then retire to our books for the evening.



The next morning we get up for our pre-breakfast walk as usual. It is misty again and our circular walk takes us along the river bank, then across the railway line and then up into the woods and farms above the valley.



Unfortunately I am so busy chatting away that I miss a turning and we end up taking a lot longer on the walk that I had planned. It was a silly mistake and when we get back to the hotel we are short of time to have breakfast, get ourselves packed and checked out. We have a train to catch.

We make it. We stagger along to the station at Les Eyzies and catch the little two carriage train to Siorac-en-Perigord a mere 40 minutes or so. We leave one lonely station to arrive at another. These French rural stations are so evocative, and a century away from the brash TGV stations of the metropolis.

I'm a bit nervous. I've arranged a rendezvous here with the canoe outfitters of Siorac Canoe Raid. My friend Eric has assured me that i will be met. We are after a little wait. Our guide is a Brazilian chap and his girlfriend. They don't have the canoe so we have to go the the canoe base and load up the trailer. Bob decides to leave a bag here to pick up later. He has more stuff than he needs as he's doing a bicycle trip after the canoe trip!

We are then driven upstream to our first put-in at Cazoules. The drive takes 90 minutes or so. Before long we are alone on the beach with our canoe and all ready to start our three days paddling down the Dordogne.



After an hour on the river we pull over for some lunch. It's a beautifully sunny day and we laze about in the warmth, before we decide that we'd better get on. We have a long paddle today and in addition, we have no accommodation booked for tonight. Both places I usually use are fully booked. Oops. I'm confident I can find somewhere though. Hopefully I can find somewhere close to the river!



The Dordogne barrels along and I make sure to visit all the little nooks and crannies I know about. You can choose several different ways around the various islands. I always tend to take the smallest most overgrown route. More fun that way.



In time we come to the famous and beautiful castle at Montfort which grandly stands above the river.



When we eventually come beneath the castle I notice a small path leads from the river bank, up the cliff and through the woods to the village above. We paddle over. I can't believe I've never noticed this before. After tying up I ask Bob to remain with the canoe whilst I walk up to the village to find us somewhere to stay. I've stayed in a B&B here before and think that their are several in the small village.

After the short steep climb I arrive in the village. I can see why I've not noticed the path from this end either as it looks suspiciously like a private path leading to a garden. But now I know.

I follow a sign to a Chambre D'hote and eventually end up in a farm by a large house. I ring the bell. A charming man answers the door and listens to the tale of my predicament with interest. He may have a room. Someone has just this minute 'phoned to tentatively book his last room. He goes back inside to call them back. I wait outside. When he returns he tells ne that sadly the other couple do want the room but that, not to worry, he has a friend in the village who also has rooms. In five minutes he tells me that a room is available. He insists I look around his rooms first, just in case I come back. I might. It's a lovely place. Then I walk across the village to meet a couple from Belgium who run another B&B. It's perfect. I take the room and then hurry back to the river to tell Bob. It feels like I've been away for hours but Bob is unfazed.

We pull the canoe up the bank and carry all our gear to the B&B where we throw everything into the room before settling down with a beer with our hosts and having a quick dip in the pool.

Later we wander around the village and take some photographs.







Even later we go out for dinner at a tiny little roadside place in the centre of the village. The food is great and the place, frequented by locals, is very friendly. A full moon rises as we retire to bed.



Even more to follow ...

A Trip to the Perigord in September 2014 (Part 1 of 3)

In early September I set out from the Eurostar station at Ashford for Paris where I visited my friends for a couple of days before taking the long train journey from the Austerlitz station in Paris to Les Eyzies in the deepest Perigord. It takes about 8 hours in all with changes at Limoges and Périgueux, but when you arrive at the tiny station of Les Eyzies you know you are far away from all the cares of city-life.

This trip is going to be very different from our regular trips. Their are just the two of us. I Met Bob on the train coming down for the first time and we are going to spend the next week sharing a canoe and a room as we paddle the Vezere and the Dordogne. It's going to be fun as we will not have the support of a van or minibus to help us get around. Just us, the river and the railway. It turns out that Bob is a professor of Japanese History so I may learn something as well.

So here we are in the small town of Les Eyzies. We have to get upstream to St. Leon so that we can canoe back down here! But first we'll walk into town find the hotel we will be staying in three days hence and leave some luggage. We'll also grab some lunch.

We sit in the sunshine have a beer and a salad. It's very warm. The luggage is organised and a taxi has arrived. A short 30 minute drive up the valley brings us to the Relais de Cote de Jor. Our host, Roland, is not about. He's left a message apologising for not being able to pick us up from the station. No worries. We throw our stuff in the room and decide to go for a walk.



It's a nice easy stroll along the top of the valley to the viewpoint at Cote de Jor. We look down on the Vezere river as it snakes through the valley. This will be our companion for the next couple of days.



After a swim in the pool and a laze about we walk down the trail to the village of St. Leon-sur-Vezere and have dinner in the Old Post Office restaurant. It was a long day, with an early start and a marathon rail journey. But we are here now and the two of us seem to be getting on just fine. We walk back up the lane to the Relais.

In the morning we have a walk before breakfast and then later stroll down the hill back to the village to meet Philippe and Virginnie at Apa canoes. After getting organised they run us upstream to Montignac where we will begin our first day on the river. We do of course have a look around the small town first and buy a baguette for our lunch.



So off we go on our little canoeing adventure. I take the stern first but we'll swap around over the next few days. These rivers are not exactly challenging in a technical sense. It's warm, the sun is shining and we have plenty to look at as we glide gently downstream.



After an hour or so we come to the Chateau du Losse which we enjoy as we meander past, checking out the ruins of the old lock gates as we approach. The Chateau is open to the public but sadly it has no entrance designed for those arriving by river and the bank is too steep for us to consider breaching the walls.



I've been in the castle before but Bob suggests he would like to visit so I propose we paddle down to the village of Thonac where we can leave our canoes and walk back to the Chateau. It's inconvenient but it is actually not that far - a mere 1/2 mile.



We spend a very pleasant couple of hours exploring the Chateau, inside and out. We even take the guided tour, even though it is mostly in French. No matter it's fairly easy to get the gist of it.







Afterwards we stroll through the fields back to where we had left the canoes and continue our journey on the Vezere. Before very long we come to another grand house: the Chateau du Belcayre. It looks astounding built on the pinnacle of rock overlooking the river.



We spin around on the river and take plenty of photographs as we pass as the sky and clouds have conspired to give us a wonderful radial shape behind the castle. The flowing weeds in front of the Chateau add to the charm of the scene.



The next stop is the tiny village of Sergeac where we will stop for our picnic lunch. We have the French bread with raw vegetables and fruit, with cheeses and some charcuterie. Simple. Afterwards we take a small walk around the place.

Then it's back on the river for the last leg of the journey to St. Leon. We pass the last of the old lock gates and meander around a couple of small islands before gliding past the last Chateau of the day in the village itself.



A few minutes later we are back at the canoe outfitters and getting ourselves together after a fine first day on the river. We have plenty of time for a stroll around the village and a beer as well before taking a slow hike up the hill back to the hotel.

In the evening we again walk down to the village only to find that it is carnival night. A small street market is set out selling all kinds of foods and there will be music and dancing later. This puts a smile on our face. We sit down for dinner whilst we watch the revelry but then have to be rushed inside as a brief storm brings rain. But it is soon gone and everyone drifts outside again. A fine end to a great first day.

To be continued ...

A Trip to the Ardeche in August 2014 (Part 1)

In late July we set off for the south of France to rendezvous with the Bertamini family at Nimes airport for an 8 Day trip to the rivers of the Gard and Ardeche with a couple of days hiking in the Cevennes thrown in for good measure. This lovely family had canoed with us last year in the Perigord and we were happy to be taking them again on another trip.

First of all though we had to get down there. It's a long drive from Calais so we decided to take a break half-way. We headed for the Haute-Saône area so that we could have a look at the Ognon river. This has potential as a future trip. Apparently you can wander down this river over 8 or 9 days to its confluence with the Saône. With that in mind we set off for Villersexel.

After an early start and an early ferry from Dover we drove across northern France in a large arc before arriving in Villersexel in the late afternoon. We quickly found a charming place to stay in the Auberge de la Terrasse which is close to the river and just opposite the canoe outfitters. The place does indeed have potential though it is hard to know really without getting in a boat! Must definitely get this organised.

The next day we continued the long drive to the south. After following the Ognon river for some miles through pretty countryside we joined the motorway south. Apart from a bottle-neck at Lyon the drive was smooth. As the afternoon got late we pulled up to the small town of Collias, where we will canoe tomorrow, in order to find somewhere for the night and somewhere not too far from the airport for our pick-up tomorrow.

After some difficulty down some narrow lanes we eventually found the Hotel le Gardon out on a lonely hill. After relaxing for a while and taking a dip in the pool we moseyed into town, a drive unfortunately and had a wander around to get our bearings for tomorrow. Along the way we discovered a rather nice cafe where we tasted some local wines and where we were charmed by the lovely host. In the evening we had dinner at the smart Le Castellas restaurant which we ducked into as a storm arrived. HIghly recommended.

So finally we get started on the trip. After eventually finding the correct airport in Nimes (information which would be handy later) we picked up our guests as they flew in from England. In no time at all we were at the famous Pont du Gard and we spent some time wandering about. It's hard to believe that the aqueduct is almost 2000 years old.



Of course the real reason we were here was to go canoeing so we drove upstream to Collias and got ourselves organised and after a picnic lunch by the river set off on our first paddle of the trip to canoe back down, and under, the Pont du Gard. It was of course a hot day and so we took out time for some splashing around on the way down.



Our first paddle over we jumped in our minibus and drove the short distance to La Bastide, a small hamlet just outside Goudargues where we will stay a couple of nights. Grace & Olivier were there to greet us and imagine our surprise when our guests were informed that they would be lodging in the castle next door. None of us could believe it. Here we are staying in a castle.



The next day we toddled into Gourdagues and got ourselves organised for a paddle on the Ceze river. A short drive took us up to Montclus, a tiny walled village, which we had time for a wander around before starting our paddle.



After some difficulty getting past the first little rapid: it was rocky & twisty, we enjoyed the meander downstream and once again found time for a swim.



In the afternoon we had a stroll around the village Roque-sur-Ceze and the waterfall called the Cascade Sautadet, a popular spot.



On our third day we drove the short distance to Les Vans and found our second hotel which apparently used to be a Nunnery. In the afternoon we paddled through the gorge of the Chassezac river which was spectacular. The river was a little bit more technical and we had some fun getting through the smallish rapids. Of course we also found time to monkey about as usual.



The end of the days paddling almost got a bit dangerous as we paddled slightly too far and ended up trying to paddle through a rock garden! Not wise. Luckily we were able to haul the boats back upstream to the beach where we were supposed to be. A beer and ice-cream settled us down.



In the evening we still had time for a dip in the pool before a lovely dinner on the terrace of the hotel. Tomorrow we are heading up into the Cevennes for a couple of days hiking. More of this to follow.

A Trip to the Perigord in June 2014

We kicked off our summer of canoeing by doing a short week-ender trip down in the Perigord region of France with some guests from Hong-Kong. We squeezed the usual 7 day trip into a 4 day format to give our guests a taste of the area.

We took 2 days to drive down to Bordeaux, where we were to pick up our guests, and visited the Poitou-Charentes area on the way down to scope out the area and the river of the same name. We came off the motorway just after Poitiers and headed for Vivonne to pick up some lunch. It's a pleasant little town with a massive Super-U supermarket. I can't think now why I want to remember this, but I did.

Anyway we then pootled down to the town of Ruffec and got some information from the very friendly tourist office. We tried to find some canoe outfitters without much luck but we did eventually end up at a pretty spot for a picnic lunch before finding a swimming hole at Condac.



I thought the river Charente here looked very pretty and certainly has potential for a future trip. We then jumped back on the main road and headed south, avoiding Angouleme, before following the river again to the town of Jarnac. The river here is larger now and perhaps not what we're looking for, but the town was nice and I think the whole Cognac region has potential.

It was late in the day now so we headed south again so we could be close to Bordeaux in the morning for a pick-up. We eventually found a camp-site somewhere near St. Andre-de-Cubac. Once again the tourist office was very helpful - we only just made it before closing time - and we were directed to a campsite run by a charming guy from Germany. We set up camp next to a pond. Only later did we realise that this was not a good idea. We were kept awake all night by croaking frogs!

We drove back into town to find a restaurant and were lucky enough to discover a little place overlooking the river Dordogne. It had been a long day so we were pleased to crash out in the tents. I don't think Steve was too happy though as his inflatable mattress thing malfunctioned and he ended up in the van. On top of that and the loudest frogs in the universe the night was interrupted by a massive thunderstorm.

So the next morning we were up early to pick up our guests from the Grand Hotel in Bordeaux (oooeee) and start our trip. Here's a few photographs:









You can see more photographs here.

On the final day we returned our guests to Bordeaux and began our long drive back to Calais. We had decided to do this in two days and so made our way to Les Sables-d'Olonne which we were too tired to really appreciate. We did find a hotel finally and then had a surprisingly good dinner at a sea-food place on the sea-front.

I can't remember much about the long drive on the last day except that we stopped off in a very pretty village in Brittany which may ave been Blain. A place worth returning too, not least because the bakery and cafe were lovely but also because a canal goes through here and it might be worth exploring a barge holiday in this area.