Kaikoura

Dolphin Watch

Well the Whale Watching was cancelled! Apparently the sea was too rough about 5 or 6 miles off-shore. However we were assured that the Dolphin Watch would not be affected as these were closer inshore. I signed up for the 9am ride and turned up at the office after breakfast to be kitted out in a wetsuit. A very pretty sight. Their were about a dozen of us on the launch as we set off to find the dolphins. These dolphins we were assured were not fed and were completely wild. I imagine they are well used to being observed by humans though. The boat set off in a southerly direction and maintained a distance of abut 100 yards from the coast. After about 40 minutes we came across a pod of dolphins. Our guides told us these were both Ducky and Hector's Dolphins, which are smaller. This pod has about 300 members were were told.




The dolphins seemed to be in a playful mood as they surfed in front of the boat. sometimes, we are told, the dolphins are sleeping, which they do with half their brain at a time. A ring of alert dolphins surrounds the pod of sleeping ones. Their only known predators are the occasional Orca. We watched the dolphins swim at speed and saw the antics they performed; jumps and somersaults. The guide told us that these exertions were used to communicate direction, pace and danger. After a while the boat slowed to a stop and we prepared to enter the water with the dolphins. We would have to repeatably do this as humans are cumbersome swimmers and the dolphins would quickly tire of us and swim off.



After entering the water, slipping in and not diving we were instructed to swim as fast as possible toward the dolphins. If we were lucky an individual would take an interest in us and swim in circles around us. We were told that maintaining eye contact was important and we could make a clicking noise too which would encourage them. The most I saw was a blur of silver grey as a dolphin whipped past and after each chase in he water it seemed like the dolphins got more and more bored. In the end it was more interesting to stay in the boat and watch the dolphins in comfort.

On the Road to Kaikoura

The East Coast and Seals on Wheels

Vic started off ahead of me the next morning, but I caught up with him having a second breakfast in a small hamlet just where the road first met the east coast. We more or less rode together the rest of the day. It was a spectacular ride. Including my first sight of snow-clad mountains, and the winding beauty of the coast, carved into the cliffs at some points and following the railway, as view after view was revealed after every headland. It even had a few short tunnels. Vic was inclined to a leisurely pace, he's about fifty years old, which suited me at this stage. We talked about his life in NZ and why he'd moved to Australia. Seems like he'd like to move back now! he was at the tail end of a three week ride around the northern end of the South Island and was returning to Christchurch. We also talked about cycle-touring. I was all ears for any tips! At one point we stopped to take pictures of each other riding. A bit posy, but this, it turned out, was the only time anyone would photograph me riding!



When we discovered a seal-colony we decided it was lunch time and idled away an hour or so. The seals were quite large and also aggressive. We watched them sunning themselves and rolling about in the surf with the kelp. The afternoon ride continued down the coast. Kaikoura could gradually be seen on the horizon, but took its time getting closer. As we entered town we headed for the Tourist Information to find details about accommodation and entertainment. Vic introduced me to Hostels, a well established chain of independent houses offering basic shelter. There are also YHA's scattered about the country. This was all news to me, as I had planned to camp everywhere. These hostels were particularly useful in the small towns and cities. We shared a dormitory room in the one we found in Kaikoura, but decided to have dinner out after a 'jug' at the local pub. The local beer is slightly sweet, and often served in a large jug, with a small glass.




At the Tourist Information we also found out that this place was famous for its excursions to see whales and dolphins, which apparently come to feed just offshore where a huge underwater chasm draws nutrients to the surface. We decided to stay an extra day and I booked myself onto a whale-watching trip for 6am the next morning.

Orca

Birthday for Sebastien and Charles

They are 7 years old today. Hopefully I'll get out to see the twins next week or so. Today I continued work on the Ireland shots and also made a mental checklist of the things to do in the garden this week-end.



This Time Last year



Up early for some shots before sunrise. After breakfast we set off for a three hour kajak towards the north end of the island. We take one break as Doug needs a leak. Everybody pulls up at a tiny beach for a snack stop and then we carry on for another hour or so. The coast has some pretty inlets here and some interesting rock formations too. Including arches.

We have a shrimp salad for lunch aboard the Frogfish and then start preparing for an afternoon snorkel. Some Bottlenose Dolphins appear and then a pod of Orca are spotted by the crew. We decide to abandon the snorkel and follow the Orca. They entertain us for about an hour as the swim and play all around the boat. It's an outstanding sight.



Abruptly the Orca leave us and we reurn to shore for out delayed snorkel. We see some quite large fish but I couldn't say what they were. On our return to camp we pass a huge pod of about 300 Common Dolphins. A fabulous sight.